Saint Louis Riverfront
Fall was just starting to settle in as I wandered downtown St. Louis. The air had that perfect crispness—cool enough to wake you up but not so cold you regret leaving the house. A light breeze carried the smell of fallen leaves and a slight whiff of coffee from a nearby shop.
The trees lining Kiener Plaza were just starting to turn. Hues of yellow and gold capped the remaining green, their leaves fluttering like tiny flags of change. The Old Courthouse stood in front of me, its green dome catching the sun like it had every day for over a century. Built between 1839 and 1864, its Greek Revival style, with stately columns and elegant symmetry, hinted at a time when grandeur and resilience was prominent in architecture. This iconic structure bore witness to some of the most pivotal moments in America’s history.
Framing the courthouse was the Gateway Arch, a bold counterpoint to the courthouse…modern, sleek, and full of optimism. Both the Old Courthouse and the Arch are dominant structures in the St. Louis skyline. It is nearly impossible to get a photo of one without the other, but I find this appropriate. Balancing the old and the new is valuable. The challenge is not just in aligning their forms but in aligning their stories, and the idea that progress is most meaningful when it honors the struggles of the past.
Closer to the foot of the Arch is the Basilica of Saint Louis, King of France, known locally as the Old Cathedral. Dedicated in 1834, it was the first cathedral west of the Mississippi River and until 1844 the only parish church in St. Louis. With its stone façade and Doric style portico, it remains a prominent example of Greek Revival architecture. The Old Cathedral is an enduring symbol of resilience, surviving through fires and floods that marked the city’s early days.
I framed my shot carefully to draw on this contrast between old and new—the graceful curves of the Arch juxtaposed with the limestone walls of the Old Cathedral’s facade. Each structure had its own story, and I did my best to blend the two into one that is uniquely Saint Louis.
The Gateway Arch grounds had been transformed into a national park, complete with walking paths and expansive green spaces. Switching to a wide-angle lens, I wandered the grounds looking for an angle that would show all of downtown nestled under the arch. I crouched awkwardly, trying to frame the scene just right in my viewfinder. The effect of the lens almost gave the scene a snow-globe quality. Downtown was rendered tiny, under an Arch that stretched high into the sky.
As the light began to change with the afternoon, I felt I had exhausted my opportunities on the Missouri side of the river. I headed back to my car and made the drive across the bridge to Illinois. Located in Malcom W. Martin Memorial Park is the Mississippi River Overlook. This tiered structure is positioned directly across from the Gateway Arch and offers expansive views of the entire Saint Louis skyline. I carried my kit to the top and settled in for sunset.
The Mississippi River passed quietly by the East St. Louis shoreline as the sun dipped lower, painting the sky with streaks of amber, magenta, and violet. There, amidst the fading light and the swirl of river air, I set up my tripod, eager to capture one of St. Louis’ most iconic views.
From my spot across the river, the Gateway Arch gleamed like a polished ribbon, standing tall against a deepening blue sky. Completed in 1965, the Arch itself is both a marvel of engineering and a nod to the city’s role as the "Gateway to the West". At 630 feet tall, it’s the tallest structure of its kind.
Perfectly framed by the Arch is the Old Courthouse, its stately dome anchoring the skyline. This courthouse, with its sandstone façade and Greek Revival columns, has seen its share of history. It was here that Dred and Harriet Scott filed their lawsuit for freedom, a landmark case that rattled the foundations of the nation.
As I reflected on the history embedded in this city, sunset turned to blue hour, pulling me back to the moment. Lights flickered on across the skyline. The Mississippi mirrored the city in ripples of gold and crimson. The Arch, now luminous against the twilight sky, stood tall over its city.
Satisfied with the photos I had taken; I stood across from the city and watched the river go by for a while. Once the lifeblood of early St. Louis, the riverfront had been the hub of everything. Steamboats had lined the banks, bringing in goods, travelers, and opportunities from up and down the river. The area would have buzzed with traders, fur trappers, and pioneers stocking up for their journey west. The riverfront was gritty and chaotic. But this is where St. Louis found its identity, straddling the line between the rugged frontier and the promise of progress.